As a Cancerian, the need to be next to the sea, to feel its sand and breathe its air is felt much sooner than anyone else’s. So there we were, my mother and I, driving on A2 highway, listening to Argentinian tangos and Leonard Cohen, on our way to visit Bulgarian neighbouring lands. The weather was already lovely and temperatures mild so our enthusiasm grew even stronger with each kilometre. After passing by the last Romanian sea resort, Vama Veche, we greeted the frontier officer and soon said “hello” to Bulgarian soils. First thing first, we bought a Bulgarian vignette (the minimum being of 7 days) which cost 15 Leva. From here, the road to Balchik is just about 65 kilometres long and is mostly straight and in very good conditions. This time of the year met us with luxuriant vegetation both on the right and left side of the road, lots of greens and yellows and jolly energy. Once reaching a large roundabout, we kept left and slowly advanced in the old city of Balchik. This little town seems to have stopped time, or that time stopped existing here. Although there are many abandoned buildings, shattered houses, and a general dereliction, a bygone charm can still be sensed around: steep hills packed-out with once-elegant tiny stores, the sea glimpsing in the background, quite narrow rambling streets radially descending towards the promenade area, taking many turns on a rather shabby boulevard. Withered in time, Balchik maintains its distinguished allure, waiting for improvements and better days. After climbing up another small hill, we came across a beautiful abandoned hotel maybe, surrounded by tall verdant trees. After this spot, the interesting part of Balchik suddenly appears: Queen Mary’s Castle and The Botanical Garden surrounding it. We first checked in at White Rock Castle Suite Hotel, a very suitable hotel for our trip, recently renovated, very clean and very comfortable. We enjoyed staying in a spacious room, with a large terrace for evening relaxation, roomy bathrooms and cosy pillows. Since everything was off-season, when we booked the hotel, we received tickets for visiting the castle for free (great deal and nice marketing tools employed, I appreciated the gesture). We dropped our bags and started walking towards our main objective. This is the proper moment for a short history lesson: Queen Mary was born in 1875 and died in 1938. She became a queen in 1914 and eagerly promoted Romania’s interests. She was a beloved public figure for the Romanian people. Due to her immense love for Balchik (in Bulgaria nowadays) and Bran area (in Romania, at the mountainside), she started the construction of the beautiful domain now decorating the hills of Balchik. Her unique fascinating style and artistic sense invoked famous painters (such as Alexandru Satmari, Tonitza, Grigorescu, Darascu, Pallady), artists, poets to surround and follow her as her guests in the beautiful villas spread all across the domain. In 1913 Romania wins Balchik and the rest of Cadrilater, but in 1940 Bulgarians reconquer the entire area. There are 2 entrances, both leading to the Quiet Nest Villa which is the renowned castle of Queen Mary. On our first day, we entered through the Botanical Garden and always kept the right side of the roads. Such beauty relies here, awaiting for ravenous eyes to feed on. A gorgeous symphony of flowers exploded into firm, wavy, correct patterns. Many assortments of tulips loftily dominated cornflowers, while elegant magnolias and glorious cypress trees set bounds to “Allah’s Garden”, a garden built in accordance with Heaven’s Garden described in Holy Scriptures of the Bible. We decided to simply walk around and admire, rather than putting pressure on ourselves to follow signs and maps and any other indicators. Our steps climbed a set of time worn stairs, which instinctively led us to Queen Mary’s grave – simple, minimalist, secluded; an imposing cross guards her tomb, encrypting a short story about her amazing life and allowing visitors to see the castle’s splendid panorama from above and to get lost in the sea’s immensity. We descended on the Lane of the Wine and suddenly found ourselves in the castle’s proximity. Since the Queen believed life’s essence could be retrieved through simplicity and unicity, the Quiet Nest Villa is nothing more or less than a humble ambassador of these basic, beautiful life principles. Its appearance is rather simple, classic, traditional, clean, genuine, and authentic. I was instantly drawn by a series of very small, colourful stain glass inlays. Semi-dark wood falling naturally into place along clear white walls, turquoise sea and crystal blue sky, white marshmallow clouds, white foamy glazing of waves, and golden sands – we had discovered a forgotten miniature Paradise. When entering the Villa, simplicity reigns and overwhelms you again. The first floor hosts beautiful art collections, paintings, sculptures, Romanian traditional religious icons. The second floor greets you with a large mirror, which I’ve felt to reflect not only my outer appearance. Then you can pass by the Queen’s yellow marble bathroom towards the bathing area – inspired by Roman luxurious baths, this chamber features the before-mentioned inlays; light pervading through the coloured marquetry creates a spectacular dance of colours intertwining, thoughts echoing, and a wide variety of emotions startling. Further on, the walk-through guides you towards the Queens bedroom and escritoire, both simple, elegant and emanating a sort of special solitude. Further on, we climbed up another magnificent suite of stairs and reached an alley facing the Waterfall. Water, an essential element for life’s existence on Earth, flows and maintains peace and serenity throughout the Balchik domain, in its various forms. A tumultuous river creates this beautiful waterfall (9 meters high) and a stunning view attached to it. As water, life flows with steadfastness. We had a short lunch break, ate seafood dishes which are actually very cheap in Bulgaria and really tasty, and drove close to Cape Kaliakra. This land stub plunging into the wide Black Sea is pretty well-known for its incredible sunsets and mesmerizing panorama. Greeks were here first (hence, the name) and the location abounds in relics and carries much history on its shoulders. Wind in my hair, sun on my neck, fresh salty air in my lungs – the feeling that you are aligned with your own beliefs and that you can continue maintaining this positive state of mind. The merciless Black Sea besieges Cape Kaliakra from 3 directions, and, on our way back to the car, on the left side, we could easily notice a mussels’ farm dutiful waiting for fishermen to collect its production. The night was upon Balchik and everything was so quiet (off-season, not that many visitors, perfect timing), so I enjoyed a long well-deserved and much-awaited sleep. The following morning, we packed up our luggage and stepped once again in the Balchik castle, since we felt there was “unfinished business” left inside. This time, we entered through the Sentry-box entrance (we paid 14 Leva, you need 2 tickets to go in, and this is mandatory: one for the gardens, and one for the castle). Immediately, on the left side we embraced the sight of more blooming colourful flowers gathered around the small yet impressive Silver Well. A passage towards Allah’s Garden arises from here and, trust me, it is beautiful – heavy doors featuring iron bars in intricate embroidery allow you to glance in perspective over the Garden of Gods. Again, we kept left on all alleys, since we chose a different entrance. Mother Nature reigned over the main path, majestic trees and lots of vegetation celebrating spring everywhere you looked. Passing on the Bridge of Sighs, once more we were left in astonishment at the relaxing waterfall’s sight. The labyrinth of stairs led to The Holy Spring with its powerful healing therapeutic water and moreover, to The Chapel also known as Stella Maris. Unfortunately, we could not visit it, but rumour has it the chapel is covered entirely with paintings. A wide garden surrounds Stella Maris and it goes by the name of Ghetsemani Garden, a name bearing Biblical implications and resonances. My favourite spot in this Paradise is the construction known as the Temple of Water. The temple comprises gallant arcades covered in ivy on the outside, and painted with bold blues and mild brick-red on the inside. Couldn’t help but think about Greek mythology and relate to dreamy nymphs ruling, dancing, inspiring, and dreaming of an underwater temple similar to ancient Atlantis. The arcades not only protect pools once filled with water (as previously mentioned, an essential element in the Balchik castle and gardens), but also serve as a frame for a heavenly postcard featuring the sea in the background, sun rays caressing it, the coastline promenade and waves breaking on the golden shores, while you rest under the breezy ivy bower. Absolutely wonderful! With nostalgia, we drove back to Romania and enjoyed a pleasant lunch in Tomis Port, in Constanta. Balchik is a total splendour, even though mostly in disrepair nowadays. I strongly recommend short trips (2 days, with 1 layover night is perfect to my mind) to Balchik during springtime when gardens are blooming and impressive, when you can enjoy this rich experience without crowds taking all over the place. I also strongly believe you should let your imagination flow while you are here, and just feel and listen to messages Nature is trying to send through. There is a certain energy field inherent to this domain, so allow your spirit to recharge and rejoice, you deserve to be here and indulge in the alluring beauty dominating these hills. Royal blue of Balchik can never be forgotten…
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