Commencing my morning with something which I consider to be a capital sin for my diet and lifestyle…Pressing the brakes, the car suddenly stops. The small, forgotten, rather dusty and uncared-for van was inviting me over to sin…That morning…In the middle of raw Transylvanian fields…I ate the intensely-desired kürtőskalács, baked with dedication by hard-working hands of happy folks belonging to the Hungarian minority in Romania. Completely cheered up by satisfying my culinary craving, I felt like Alice in Wonderland, except for the fact that I was Moonchild in Covasna county; colourful authentic houses crumbling towards my window like tasty marshmallows running around in an unforgettable dream. Rustic roads, carriages and horses, more vans alluring travelers with kürtőskalács, red onions and homemade potato bread, peasants on their porches probably sharing one or two little gossips they’ve heard around or simply waiting for time to pass – yes, in the countryside, time has a totally different dimension, it expands. I felt blessed for yet another beautiful autumn day I was living. That simple, tempting life, away from civilization, away from abstract notions such as time or money or what we like to call “problems of modern life”, what a treat indeed! By now, you might be wondering if I went purposelessly to a forgotten village in mid-Transylvania. No, I did not. I would, though. The truth is I have longed to visit the controversial Zabola Castle on the Mikes Estate for quite a while now and finally found the perfect moment to be there. The gates to the estate opened and magic was released: tall trees everywhere, surrounding the establishment, loyal guardians in their fascinating garments changing colours every season greeting travelers from across the entire world. Un-paved alleys and old-school street lights with candles inside, lit every evening to guide people’s steps into a dream world of their own. A small river crossing the estate, wooden bridges, fountains, relaxation areas and decorative plants cut in special designs, a small lake in front of one of the main buildings and a white boat ready to be ridden by any guest, stables, charming, strong horses, and a very big domain to be explored. Which was obviously the honext step I took. It was too early to check in, so I took my royal burgundy long dress to a walk in the woods. Every slow move under the sun, in the grass, in the fresh air, under the cerulean blue sky, was part of a dreamy world which I created for myself. Soon, I came to discover the sauna in the woods and a wooden pavilion surrounded by pure beauty, vibrant life: birds, tree trunks, leaves, roots, ground, mild wind, all breathing in the same direction, to content my soul and wrap me in humanity. What do you usually do when you read a sign telling you that something is forbidden? You totally disobey it. So did I when seeing that access was forbidden on some of the property’s areas – the ones in which the counts taking care of the estate live. And thus, I witnessed beauty to a whole new cosmic level: another bigger lake soon became visible from an alley, under a tapestry weaved with curved trees and branches. The lake led to a small island close to its end, the most silent island I have ever been on, I could hear both my heart beat and my most hidden thoughts crawling to the surface. I simply sat on a log, took some pictures, and let myself amazed by the stunning view. A bike-ride outside of the estate can be charming as well, and it can replenish your batteries. I rode a bike through the village until I reached a railway, glancing at authentic houses of Hungarian heritage. Somehow in a meditative mood, felt like stopping by the restaurant (an incredible separate household, with two big rooms, one of them painted in red with an interesting chandelier hanging from the ceiling and a big fireplace) to have a black tea with milk. And I did. On the porch, overlooking yet another hidden lake in the back of this building. I simply adore the clear reflections of trees and the sky on a lake’s surface, I could stare at it for hours and still not get bored. And I read, finished one of the books I carried with me, also looked over one about Queen Mary of Romania, which I found in one of the estate’s constructions yet to be renovated thus not open for the public. And soon, there was evening and then the night fell deep, the wind’s caress became rather similar to a violent stroke, and darkness took over. Even the candles had gone to sleep, and everything was completely flooded in dark hues of deep intense black. It was quite difficult to reach the main building, The Machine House. The Machine House is composed of several rooms, spacious rooms, some with lavish showers, some with cozy fireplace, and some with a very chic bathtub in the middle of the chamber. I chose the Red Room to spend the night in. Opening the upholstered door and stepping in: all lights were dimmed, discrete hues of red here and there, the majestic bathtub overlooking the windows, the fireplace on the left side, the shower on the right side also dimly lit. For one very vivid moment, I had the sensation of opening the closet room to Narnia, or in my case, to some centuries behind, to an age with princes and princesses, counts and marquises, long dresses and rich lips, riding boots and stiff, starch shirts and opulent collars, along with perverted minds hiding away from society. The bed was immense, and in its immensity, I got lost once more in my tormenting thoughts. And it was also high. As late hours of the night passed, I lit all the candles in the fireplace, on the fireplace and everywhere else across the room, until their heat spread like a hurricane, embracing my skin in a torrid hug. And then time was not there any longer, I barely know if I was there at all…
Very often this year I have felt that I am floating above this world which we inhabit, somehow unrooted, somehow seeing myself from outside, and somehow allowing life to flow through my human veins in the present moment, erasing past and future with unearthly powers. More and more often, I know that I am one of the Moons of this Earth, protecting and sensing, untouchable and solitary, sent here to learn how to be human on the inside when faced with pettiness and grief, and still glow in Her darkest times, and cry stars when pain becomes unbearable. All these sensations came to me as a dream also in Zabola Castle. One interesting fact I forgot to mention to you: during communist ages, this castle was taken away from the noblemen and transformed into a psychiatric hospital. Maybe the inclination to vividly dream around the estate is not so random, after all…
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