The famous island of Ios, in the Greek Cycladic archipelago, has been inhabited from prehistoric times, but it was not until 1050 BC that Ionians settled down in here. Later on, in 1204, the island was occupied by Crusaders and came under the authority of Venetians. According to local myths, Ios owes its name to the many violets blooming on the island each spring (“ion” in Ancient Greek). The ferry that would take us from Folegandros to Ios arrived at midnight. Thus, we were first introduced to the island of Ios when night was already sitting comfortable in its dark throne, reigning over nocturnal creatures. Our hotel was in walking distance from the port; as sleep began to delicately crawl under our skins, we were given no other option than to dream on and get proper rest. In the morning, we were greeted with some sad news. Most of the beaches I did research on, wanted to visit and at least take photos of were accessible only by boat. After renting an ATV, we soon found out that Ios is crossed by just a main road, and the many other dusty alleyways are not just very steep and totally unorganized, but also dangerous to try to descend on. From the port, passing through Chora, we drove across the entire island to reach Magganari, a small village featuring a paradisiac long, sandy beach. My eyes were scouting everything as we drove on. The island of Ios is a rather large one, but most of it is uninhabitable due to its high, abrupt cliffs and inhospitable vegetation. For almost 45 minutes after passing through Chora, there was nothing right or left the main road but precipitous cliffs, sunburnt shrubs and occasional mystical white-washed churches, inserted somehow on hidden pathways. I would describe Magganari beach as a simple yet splendid beach, with 2 wide golfs bathing its shoreline, split by an easy-to-cross barefoot rocky formation. For me, it’s amazing how overwhelming can simplicity be. Our feet found golden, fine sand beneath them, extending into the crystal clear sea until far, far away, tantalizing you to step inside and never go back on shore. Some few sunbeds and umbrellas were installed on the beach, a beach bar would offer its services if necessary and Christos’ tavern fed us at lunch with traditional Greek food. Boats, large or small, humble or luxurious, were all anchored in the second visible golf, floating above these incredibly clean and clear turquoise waters. No seashells, no pebbles, no seaweed, mere splendid Aegean bodies of water. Since we were nearby, we also stopped and took photos of Tris Klisies beach, a secluded unorganized beach at the bottom of a cliff. On our way back to the main part of the island, we visited Agios Theodoti beach, a wide sandy beach, bathed by the same turquoise waters we were already familiarized with by then. It was about this time when I felt that Ios empowered me with the strong belief that one day may never truly end, it can go on and on until the end of time, time as we know it or as we design it, it is a matter of personal choice I think… We discovered the windmills (unfortunately, some were left without sails) up the hill in Chora, allowing us a perfect sight over the miraculously beautiful landscape. From here and up, you can easily reach the Odysseas Elytis Theatre. Chora was the following objective on our trip list. From a central parking lot, the entrance is marked both by an imposing gate belonging to the Aegean architecture and a huge church with blue domes. From there on, my explorer instincts guided our steps throughout this old traditional settlement, on narrow passages, tight alleys, filled with tidy shops, clubs, bars, cafeterias. Chora is vibrant, it feels very alive, lots of youngsters visit the island of Ios for its infamous fun nightlife. Caught in between white-washed walls, cobbled lanes, walking under arcades, climbing stairs towards a mysterious “rooftop” of Chora, until there we were, glancing at Panagia Gremiotissa (the saint protector of the island). In the vicinity of this amazing church stands a tall palm tree, conferring this spot not only loftiness and uniqueness, but also creating a great contrast between the domes’ electric blue, the all prevailing white on the walls and the lively green featured on the palm’s leaves, all caressed by Helios’ warm rays. We climbed further and discovered three other smaller churches standing on the same hill. The patio of this grandiose church is renowned to offer splendid sunsets. Again, we descended from Panagia Gremiotissa on paths filled with secrets of who knows how many generations by now?... We continued to drive towards Koumpara, salty souls following the wind’s whispers. We passed by Yialos Beach, a cozy beach close to the port, with sandy shoreline and good energy. From here, we could also spot the majestic Agia Irini, guarding over incoming and departing ships from its secluded cliff. We stopped at Koumpara beach and witnessed yet another blessed sunset, our last one in Greece during this particular summer. Pathos Lounge Bar, on a hill in this part of the island, provided amazing music that could be heard throughout the entire valley. Although this piece of Greek land was not as magical as Folegandros island, that particular moment spent on Ios was truly magical. We returned the ATV and walked around the port’s shops, looking for traditional souvenirs. We then waited for our ferry to arrive and take us back to Santorini, our starting point for this holiday. On Ios, we had only one day, and I was afraid it would not be enough. And it wouldn’t have been if all the beaches were accessible from mainland. So, as a personal conclusion and a promise to myself, I will return to this land of fun and gold sand and clear seas with a boat, surrounding it and scouting for paradisiac remote beaches, untouched, wild and breathtaking. The only interesting spot we decided not to go to because it was quite far and a bit unorganized from what we heard, was the tomb of Homer, whose mother lived on Ios, and who found his eternal rest here as well.
I spent one full enjoyable day on Ios, disconnected from recurring thoughts, simply rejoicing the simplest forms of living. Ios’ beaches are essential therapy for troubled minds, burdened souls and delicate bodies. Never will I say farewell to my beloved Greece, it will always be “Until next time, my love!”…
2 Comments
|